Day 11: Cookeville, TN to Nashville (76.0 miles, 790.6 total, 35.9 mph max)
I saw a hawk sitting on a fence on the right side of the road. The land dropped very steeply below the fence. When I came up to him, he hopped up, took two flaps and soared into the valley. It was graceful and really impressed me.
Yesterday we were riding by some meadows and we saw three horses running and playing. The wind was blowing. It was beautiful; straight out of Little House on the Prairie.
We made it to Nashville, country music city, USA. A big tourist trap; fun, though. We're taking tomorrow off.We deserve it.
Some beers tonight, bike shop tomorrow, country music shows, etc. I hope to catch up on some writing tomorrow.
Day 12: Day off in Nashville, TN
I can't believe it, but I had a blast today listening to country music. I think I might even like it. We saw the Opryland Hotel; I know where to go for the perfect date. The conservatory was wonderful. When I get home I want to go to Phipp's (the local conservatory in Pittsburgh) and check it out.
I'm glad we took off and I feel rested. We ought to get far tomorrow.
We met a man named Lowell. Single guy, quit his job and went camping at Nashville. We went to see Vince Cordell and his Dancing Waters (I have no idea what this is, nor do I have any recollection of it. In fact, I'm not sure I'm spelling it correctly because my handwriting is difficult to read) with Lowell. He drove. So, we even got to ride in Lowell's pickup. My stay in the south is complete.
At the Nashville KOA: Dave something, I don't know. A great show with our new friend. We're becoming friends but I'll never see him again in my life. Weird. (I don't actually remember Lowell at all, but for some reason I think he was living at the KOA Campground in Nashville)
Day 13: Nashville to west of Waverly, TN (90.5 miles, 881.0 total, 36.4 mph max)
Whew -- what a day. At least it ended good. Sort of. This is how it went: Woke up and took off about 8. By the time we were through Nashville -- and Nashville is very cool -- I got a foreign object puncture. BOOM! Psssssss. . . There was an inch gap in the sidewall. So, athletic tape and crossed fingers should do the trick. Right! That gets us to Dickson, TN.
Some kid pushing buggies at the Dickson Wal-Mart said to go to the bike shop that turned out to be out of business last year. So, we hope it will make it to the next shop - Jackson: 120 miles.
Just then, I noticed Chris's bike is making noise. We check it out and the tire has a slight bubble and is rubbing on the brake shaft washer. It's already worn a hole through! More athletic tape and get rid of the the washer. Double crossed fingers.
Too more random flats (obvious why).
We made it to Waverly. No bike shop.
I tried a 27-inch Wal-mart tire, but it didn't work and we returned it. (Our bikes, and all road bikes purchased at bike shops come in metric sizes; the parts Wal-mart carries won't work for most parts). Allright. Let's pray like crazy and hope to make it to Jackson, which is now 100 miles away. Dinner at KFC Buffet. Good deal. Now we're looking for a place to camp.
Everything's going bad today. Then, out of the blue, we're at a shopping center parking lot patching our tubes and a strange woman gives us each an ice cold pop (soda). Ok, things may be a little better. Off to find camp.
I say pull over now, Chris says keep going . . and going . . and going. Now we're about to cross the Tennessee River and, Campground! Right on the banks. Everything's ok until morning. But we need to make it to Jackson and tomorrow is Sunday. Monday is Memorial Day.
Things could get sticky again. I'll hope for the best.This is more like the experience I remember. I don't feel the need to supplement this much because it flows in the way the trip felt: cultural experiences, personal connections, and natural beauty meshed with the intensity and spontaneity of traveling by bicycle.
Then again, "Dinner at KFC buffet. Good deal," isn't the most exciting way to articulate the experience I was having . . . who writes this stuff??
I remember your flat at the beginning of that ride and of course the washer part ripping my tire bare. I thought it was in this timeline we found that store that moved with downtown. (No luck with the journal BTW, may not find it until we move somewhere else).
ReplyDeleteNashville was great. It was around then, possibly the days before (at the Pizza Hut where the waitress liked us), when we heard "Boot, Scoot and Boogie" for the first time.
Lowell was a character. All he had was his pickup and camping gear. I recall him also mentioning "paying the part" when he goes to different cities. Here he had authentic cowboy boots, a 10 gallon hat and a cowboy buckle to round out his wardrobe. He drove us over to the Opryland Hotel and we walked around. Vince Cordell was a pianist and there was a fountain with lights that were synchronized to his playing.
I also remember you wanting to lock up our bikes and sneak into the back gate at Opryland (the park) - the next day? I wasn't too keen on that idea, maybe paranoid, a better word.
I'll continue to fill in the gaps with my memory but really wish I had my Journal - the search continues. . .) Thanks again for writing this. I'm sure there are many times our personalities did not mesh along the route. I do recall at moments wanting to continue riding maybe that led to some conflict.